DATE: Art Nouveau, c.1890

Mrs. Newman born in 1836, studied her craft at the Kensington School of Art leading to the start of her career with London's top jeweller John Brogden. John Brogden was active from 1842-1885 and worked very much in the classical taste that was highly fashionable thanks to Castellani. Newman worked with Brogden initially as a pupil and assistant, before getting the role of goldsmith and eventually designer. She was a highly skilled goldsmith, crafting stunning pieces in a range of archaeological and contemporary (then) styles. Exhibiting in 1867 and 1878 with Brogden in Paris before establishing her own business in 1884 employing many of his craftsmen. From owning her own shop on Saville Row, London, her "Mrs. N" makers mark became not only synonymous with the quality craftsmanship, but the inclusion of Mrs. "let people know immediately that it was designed by a woman" and paved the way for other women in what was then a male-only world.

Her work shows a remarkable attention to detail, and this Art Nouveau brooch is modelled as a gold intertwined flower, each petal set with small turquoise cabochon flowers. With a gorgeous moonstone that rests in the centre, where the light seems to pool inside the stone, displaying a fantastic shimmer and glow. It's crafted in 18k yellow gold, with the infamous Mrs N makers mark. Circa 1890. 

STONES 

Moonstone

Turquoise 

MEASUREMENTS 

2.5 x 2.6cm

WEIGHT 

6.5g

MARKS 

Mrs N makers mark 

Tests as 18k gold 

CONDITION 

Excellent